“Try to get the window seat on the right side of the aircraft when you are flying into Venice. You will see the ‘Big Fish” or Two Kissing Fish’, so fly during the day, ” said art historian, fifth grade teacher and travel enthusiast, John Daum.  “It is a dream come true to stand here and know that we have this incredible brewery and all of these wonderful people in our community who have come out on a Thursday night, here, in this place that we all love, called Middleburg,” continued Daum. The January 9th talk was hosted by the Loudoun County Public Library at the  Old Ox Brewery, Middelburg.

Having seen this event promoted on Facebook, I was not sure that a library event was something I wanted to attend. I saw the promotion repeatedly and until an hour before the start, I was vacillating. Finally, I googled John Daum. What I discovered was a man who is passionate about art, travel, and his students. He is a teacher at the Hill School in Middleburg, his fortunate students learn about art history from this art-loving, traveling, enthusiastic man! OK! May I please be a fifth grader for his class? Needless to say, I picked up my notepad and pen and headed for Middleburg.

We were treated to a virtual tour of the mystical and magical city of Venice. No packing, No TSA, No connecting flights. Just a cold craft beer, some time with friends, and listened and watched as John delighted us with abundant images of well-known and many not-so-well known aspects of Venice.

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 “Venice is one of my favorite places in the world…”, said Daum. He stressed that there are countless, “cool and unusual things about this city.” “It shouldn’t be there. But it is. This is a Disneyland and should have never happened. But it did happen and it was a world superpower for hundreds of years and a cultural hotspot even today. If you get lost in Venice – it’s ok because you are in Venice and it is an island. So get lost,” Daum told us.

“Upon arriving in Venice by plane or train, a boat will pick you up and whisk you into Venice in about 30 minutes. There are no streets, no cars – all water and beautiful buildings. All of these buildings would be a marvel in other cities but in Venice, there are so many, they can appear ordinary. Most of the buildings are original,” continued, Daum after sipping his favorite beer (#11 on the menu, I believe). He compared Canaletto’s painting of Venice with a current photo of the city – little or no change is evident. “Nothing makes sense in Venice – maps do not help. You can find yourself down an alleyway – you can see ‘laundry day,’” John joked.

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“Anything that you have heard about Venice that is negative, is ‘complete BS,’” according to John. He continued, “If you have been there and did not like it, you did something wrong.  Going in on a cruise ship or just for the day is shortchanging the experience. Hanging out in St. Mark’s Square is not actually being in Venice. It is the equivalent to going to NY and just going to Times Square. A lot of what makes Venice special is outside of the tourist area. 85% of the people who visit Venice come in for the day, not spend the night and leave. The economy of Venice is surviving on just 15% of the visitors who really engage with the city. If you go – be the good tourist who spends some time there, book a hotel room, spend some money and enjoy these areas that are beautiful and that are waiting for you. It is really a time capsule of a different era.”

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“Venice is a place that expects you to be lost and welcomes you. Go treasure hunting for unique items like the Aqua Alta bookstore where there are books in a gondola and a bathtub filled with comic books. It is ready to go if the floods come. See if you can find the only bridge without railing.  Find the few remaining ‘informant boxes.’ Wander, enjoy the atmosphere. Slow down, there is a lot of enjoying the atmosphere. Early mornings and on weekend it is very quiet  – nobody is out. Stroll,” suggested Daum.

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Venice has rediscovered their spirits, Grapa. Italy, particularly Venice, is enjoying a renaissance of Grapa. There is such a thing as high end grapa. “You should try Venetian grapa – smooth powerful and very tasty. There are also a lot of handcrafted beers. They are fantastic! Ask for the local beer and the locals will love you,” recommended Daum.

John’s descriptions of restaurants, the food (gourmet pizza, gnocchi, and more), the beverages, and atmosphere were beguiling. I was mentally packing my carry-on suitcase.

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John discussed that gondola rides are popular and can be fun. He told us that the front of the gondola has a “ferro” and the “teeth” represent the 6 neighborhoods of Venice.  A Gondola cost about $80K. Gondolier licenses are difficult to get and are typically kept in families. A 20 minute gondola ride will cost about $120. “Do it away from St. Marks in order to avoid the ‘It’s a small world’ experience. There are now women gondoliers. For a different experience – you can learn how to row your own boat. A great way to see a different side of Venice,” suggested Daum.

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As old as Venice is, it attracts a lot of modern art. Last summer Banksy was there. Festivals and exhibitions attract artists and travelers throughout the season.

Venice is home to tremendous arts and artisans. Make your own mask, learn to blow glass, visit the fabric shop, have local gelato, enjoy great pop-up wineries. “You can get some of the best wine for 3 bucks,”  said Daum.

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No visit to Venice would be complete without experiencing the unique Venetian specialties –  

Gelato. There is much to be known about this amazing delicacy.  There are great and amazing gelato places. Did you know that Gelato should be made fresh every day?  It should be made and displayed in small containers. Who knew?

Fabrics. There is one textile handmade plant that makes some of the finest fabrics – silk velvets. They say that they are the ones who invented velvet. You can watch it being made on old machines using punch cards. Purchases of fabric or artifacts support the local economy.

Glass. Murano glass is made on its own island. It was kept away from the main city to prevent fires. John shared a little-known story, “Two artisans from Murano were bribed by the King of France and they made the mirrors for the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles.” 

Colors. .John told us about an island named, Burano, a “technicolor island” where they make lovely lace. “It is hard to take a bad photo of this island. The locals are very pleasant and happy for tourists,” said Daum.

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Art. That the art in Venice is amazing, is a well-known fact.  John touched upon just a couple of artists – Bellini and Titian. John focused primarily on Titian’s The Pieta. It has been recently restored. It was painted around 1575 during the plague. Titian’s son died of plague while he was painting The Pieta. Not long after, Titian himself succumbed to the deadly disease leaving the painting unfinished.  Because it is in a local museum, it is possible to get up close and see “the brushstrokes and even his fingerprints,” John told us.  He continued,  “Titian was painting in the impressionist style long before the French movement. In his advanced years, he drained his palette of the bright colors and he kept growing and challenging himself to do something new.”

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Our whirlwind tour of Venice concluded with a round of enthusiastic applause. The event continued with the tasting of more interesting beers and fascinating conversation. John Daum will present future lectures on Rome as well as the architecture of New York City, all hosted by the Library.  

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